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Trango Tower in one of the most spectacular mountain regions on earth with rock walls soaring seemingly endlessly upwards. The well-known rock spire, Trango Tower, is on the same ridgeline as we are taking to Great Trango’s summit and our route passes directly beneath Trango’s needle like structure.
Great Trango looks almost un climbable from the Baltoro glacier but a route of only moderate difficulty exists by following an approach gully to Trango’s base, then by following the NW ridge we gain the summit snow plateau and the summit. Great Trango was the scene of the remarkable Base Jump completed in the ‘Base Climb’ video and our route of ascent is the same as the climbers in the film took to begin their incredible leap. We will, however, be taking a more subdued approach to descending by reversing our ascent route!
The climbing consists of a 500m climb to camp one via a large gully leading to a huge boulder, which protects the campsite from any rock fall. The next stage is a climb up moderate snow and rock slopes crossing beneath Trango Tower and along to meet the NW ridge and the site of camp two. There can be no more spectacular and picturesque campsite in any mountain range than this one. Rock towers soar all around and the peaks of the upper Baltoro valley will come into view. The summit day from here follows a knife-edge ridge to a small ice cliff, which leads us onto the summit snowfields and a few hours later the summit itself.
3 Hours Before Flight Time
Day 01 Islamabad:
Day 02 Islamabad -Skardu/Chilas:
Fly to Skardu. In case of cancellation of flight drive to Chilas (12-14 hrs drive)
Day 03 Chilas – Skardu:
Day free at Skardu. If your are driving, complete road journey (7–8 hrs) to Skardu (275 km) En-route has good view of Nanga Parbat (8125m)
Day 04 Skardu:
Briefing at Alpine Club of Pakistan.
Day 05 Skardu – Askole (3000m):
Jeep drive to Askole (5-6 hrs)
Day 06 Askoli – Jola (3300m/5 hrs/trek)
Day 07 Jola – Payu (3240m/5-6 hrs/trek)
Day 08 Rest day at Payu for acclimatization
Day 09 Payu – Trango Base Camp (4200m/6-7 hrs/trek)
Day 10-30 20 days for acclimatization and climbing
Day 31-34 Trek back to Skardu follow the same route
Day 35 Islamabad/Chilas:
Fly to Islamabad. In case of flight cancellation drive to Chilas
Day 36 Islamabad:
Leisure day at Islamabad. In case of driving, complete rod journey from Chilas to Islamabad
Day 37 Fly Out:
Transfer to airport for onward flight